CHINA: THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS

(You can read the article on the latest Book Moda Woman issue N.13 too)

From the Duchess of Windsor’s proud and enigmatic pose, immortalised in a famous portrait by Man Ray, to the female protagonists of the black and white film ‘Limehouse Blues’ (1934) set in London’s China town, and the sumptuous creations by the couturier Paul Poiret, ‘Le Magnifique’ – such as the ‘Confucius’ cape in the shape of a kimono, too innovative and visionary for its day – they all impressed a new trend on the annals of style, it was ‘Orientalism”. It is difficult, not to say almost impossible to retrace a step by step, collection by collection, the fatal attraction that China has had, in already more distant times, before becoming the “Dragon” and one of the strongest economies in the world, and how it has succeeded in influencing the most celebrated designers in the west. The clothes, accessories, details and atmosphere that became picture postcards, distant journeys to Shanghai, Hong Kong and Beijing on the glossy catwalks of Paris, Milan, New York and London. The exhibition ‘China: Through the Looking Glass’ at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan museum in New York from May 7th to August 16th 2015, reconstructs that complex and prolific creative dialogue between the Orient and the West. 130 exhibits including haute couture and prêt-à-porter clothing, each piece accompanied by jewellery, porcelain and antique Chinese artefacts from the imperial period to the present day. Fashion, art, cinema, culture and history all united in creativity. Unforgettable masterpieces, such as the dress designed by Tom Ford in 2004 for Yves Saint Laurent, inspired by the clothing worn by the last emperor, Pu Yi, or one by Roberto Cavalli in 2005, influenced by the colours and decoration of 15th century Chinese porcelain. An exhibition, an event and a rare occasion to see cocktail dresses from close up,  such as “Quiproquo” by Christian Dior of 1951 with pictograms along its entire outline or the dinner dress by Ralph Lauren (autumn/winter ’11-’12) flaunting a magisterial dragon on the back. And then any number of references to the most famous Chinese film-makers,  Zhang Yimou, Chen Kaige, Wong Kar-wai and Ang Lee, who won a Golden Lion at the Venice Film Festival in 2007 for his film (with fantastic costumes) ‘Lust, Caution’ set in forties Shanghai.

The journey to the east continues within the walls of this New York museum with famous Chinese ‘Women of Style’, from Madame Wellington Koo to Soong May-ling, who are still, for many today, symbols of style, allure and grace. That totally oriental grace made up of small, fluid gestures handed down from generation to generation.